Looking to elevate your eye-makeup routine? Universally flattering eyeliner shades are an effortless way to add dimension and versatility. “In painting colour theory, you’re taught that the darkest darks (blacks) and lightest lights (whites) exist to accentuate the middle tones: think greys, browns and a range of colours, enhancing dimension and creating contrast,” editorial makeup artist El DeBratto explains. “Makeup follows the same principles. When you choose eyeliner shades that fall into softer, less high-contrast middle tones, they tend to be more most flattering and wearable across a wide range of faces.”
Ahead, pro makeup artists reveal the exact six shades that complement just about everyone. From classic blacks and ivory brighteners for everyday to a deep burgundy that yields a festive pop, these are the hues that will flatter any gaze.
Deep Black
Blue eyes, green eyes, hazel eyes and more because who doesn’t have a black eyeliner in their makeup bag? Much like the little black dress, the classic black eyeliner is a true beauty mainstay, working beautifully across all eye colours and skin tones (though some might prefer a more subtle shade). “A deep black is universally flattering because it’s neutral and the end goal is to create definition and contrast,” say pro makeup artist Kasey Spickard. “When you’re working with a shade that deep, you’re naturally going to get the contrast you want.”
The catch, of course, is that black eyeliner leaves little room for error: smudging or transferring can ruin any makeup look and it’s far more noticeable with such an inky hue. That's why the Lancôme’s pencil delivers similar staying power with a hybrid liquid-to-gel texture that sets quickly and stays firmly in place. Anastasia Beverly Hills's Liquid Liner is a very similar option when it comes to long-lasting stay and colour payoff.
Chocolate Brown
For Spickard, chocolate brown ranks just behind black as one of the most universally flattering eyeliner shades. Álvarez echoes the sentiment, noting that brown eyeliner often appear fresher on mature skin and naturally skews more soft glam than dramatic. Still, choosing the right chocolate-hued liner comes down to one key factor: your skin’s undertone. Spickard recommends pairing warm skin tones with warm browns and applying the same logic to cooler undertones.
“If I have a client with a warm or warm-neutral undertone, I’ll often reach for an eyeliner like MAC Cosmetics’s Kohl Eyeliner Pencil in Costa Riche, which is a very warm-toned brown,” he says. “Meanwhile, the brand’s cool-toned shade, Coffee, reads ’90s sultry.” For a more budget-friendly option, he turns to Maybelline’s Tattoo Studio pencils. “It’s an affordable price point and easy to find in any drugstore. The formula offers creamy blendability before setting, then delivers an ultra-long-lasting finish that fully locks down and stays put, even in the waterline,” he adds.
Charcoal
Seeking something more subtle, that still makes eyes pop? Don’t discount grey as only suitable for a smoky eye. In fact, it’s a more natural-looking alternative to jet black. “Charcoals are going to be flattering on everyone. For instance, a black liner could read as too intense on someone with mature skin or very fair features. Whereas, if you were to opt for a charcoal grey, it’s still going to add definition and dimension to the eye space without overwhelming it,” says DeBratto.
Celebrity makeup artist Genevieve Herr has echoed this approach, previously sharing that she favours grey tones for daytime wear. She recently used Clinique’s Quickliner in Slate on Julia Roberts for the After the Hunt premiere at the New York Film Festival. It has a super-precise retractible tip, making it easy to tightline or swipe across your lower lash line.
Burgundy
For a more unexpected and fun eyeliner choice, burgundy is a no brainer: deep like a full glass of bordeaux wine, this jewel tone adds warmth and makes eyes look utterly sultry. “A rich burgundy brings an unexpected pop of color that’s bold, but wearable,” celebrity makeup artist Tasha Reiko Brown previously told Vogue. “I get asked for burgundy-eyeliner looks all the time,” says Spickard. “It’s incredibly flattering on blue, green and brown eyes. You can sculpt and build shape or really buff it out for something softer.”
Off-White
A touch of creamy white liner can make a noticeable difference. Pro makeup artist Lisa Aharon previously said that applying a brightening eyeliner along the waterline or inner corners can instantly wake up tired-looking eyes. “A nude eyeliner is a beautiful option for those who want to open or brighten up the eye space; as opposed to its more harsh counterpart: white,” says DeBratto. She favors nude-leaning, off-white shades, which read more natural across a range of skin tones and eye colors. For a subtle take on the effect, Chanel’s Khôl Intense Eye Pencil in Clair delivers a soft, beige-toned nude.
Emerald
Emerald is another shade Spickard always keeps in his kit. While it’s especially striking against brown eyes, he notes that it works beautifully across all skin tones and undertones, “While still feeling elevated and intentional.” If you’re after a true, Wicked-worthy emerald, Make Up For Ever’s Aqua Resist Color Eyeliner in Forest delivers standout pigment. Spickard is a fan as well, keeping this pencil on hand for its exceptional staying power, particularly on the waterline.
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This article first appeared on Vogue.com
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