If retinol has ever made you feel like skincare is a contact sport, complete with skin purging, flaking and stinging, you’re not alone. And once you’ve been burned (sometimes literally), you start looking for an active that doesn’t come with a warning label.
That’s probably why bakuchiol has been having a moment. Positioned as the gentler pick for anyone who can’t tolerate retinol, it’s become skincare’s favourite “retinol-adjacent” active, praised by dermats, creators and ingredient nerds alike for promising similar benefits with less repelling downsides.
What is bakuchiol?
“Bakuchiol is not a retinoid,” says Dr Chytra Anand, founder and CEO of Kosmoderma Clinics. What makes it compelling, she adds, is that “it appears to behave like one.” The Ayurvedic ingredient is derived from the seeds and leaves of Psoralea corylifolia (bakuchi in Ayurveda), a plant traditionally used for concerns like pigmentation, inflammation and vitiligo. Today, it’s extracted, stabilised and formulated into oils, creams and serums, often marketed as a dependable, early anti-ageing option.
Dr Kiran Sethi, founder of ISYA Derm, sees it as “a safe alternative for those sensitive to retinols", but notes that truly effective products are harder to find and it often needs twice-daily use. Retinol, she points out, still wins on depth of evidence for ageing and collagen support. Dr Madhuri Agarwal, founder of Yavana Skin and Hair Clinic, agrees, “The comparison can be misleading; there isn't enough evidence yet that bakuchiol consistently matches retinol’s results. Retinol remains my first choice given its track record.”
Why I signed up for this
The funny thing about being in your early 30s is that you barely feel any different from your late 20s. And if you haven’t been too lax about diet and skincare, your skin won’t tell on you. That’s exactly why I started using retinol; not for instant results, but for the kind of long-game payoff you only notice years later. Add to it my years in beauty writing and constant chats with dermats and the line about retinol “working at a cellular level” and helping with elasticity piqued my curiosity.
But retinol also comes with dryness, sensitivity and the occasional sting that makes you second-guess your entire routine. Since I didn’t have a persistent skin woe to fix, I found myself gravitating towards something that promised similar intent with a gentler experience. The skincare enthusiast in me pinned my hopes on this plant-based alternative, fully aware that natural ingredients take time. But I was willing to wait it out.
How to use bakuchiol
I did a month-long trial and bakuchiol fared decently well on my normal-to-dry skin, but it wasn’t without its limitations. Typically recommended to use twice a day once your skin gets accustomed to it, bakuchiol formulas are usually applied post-cleansing and toning.
As a staunch believer in rose water, I religiously spritzed it onto my face every morning before dabbing on some bakuchiol cream. But because a slight dryness came along within the week, I realised my routine was missing a proper hydrating layer; like a serum with humectants to seal in moisture before the cream went on.
I did like how comfortable it felt the moment it went on; none of that sharp, slightly pungent “bite” that can make you brace yourself before application. I still needed a light moisturiser on top to keep my skin feeling hydrated through the day. I’d possibly blame the timing (the harsh Delhi winters that literally leave your skin parched), but it’s still a con I wouldn’t let slide.
Who is bakuchiol not suitable for?
If you’re dealing with bigger issues like severe acne breakouts and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, this might be too gentle for your liking. Moreover, with the efficacy of bakuchiol products being largely dependent on the concentration of the ingredient (some creams contain very low percentages, making them ineffective), it might make you think twice. Additionally, even though bakuchiol is mild, Rosacea, eczema or heat-triggered sensitiveness may react to it negatively.
What it did for me
By week two, I noticed a subtle brightening effect and a lift in dullness. But the promised texture improvement didn’t show up for me within the first month. That said, because it’s mild and non-irritating, this Ayurvedic ingredient feels like a low-risk experiment: it wears well as a daily face cream and leaves you looking a touch fresher.
Bakuchiol will likely shine as a steady staple if your skin is already in a good place. It doesn’t rock the boat, but it also won’t swoop in and fix deeper concerns on its own. Think of it as a fuss-free supporting act: comfortable to use, reliably gentle and capable of a mild brightening boost. Just don’t expect a dramatic transformation.
Below, some products to get started with:
indē wild Sunset Restore Serum
Allies Of Skin CE15 Bakuchiol Firming Oil
Also read:
What is salicylic acid and how does it clear up spots?
Why dermatologists are rethinking hypochlorous acid
I kept a 60-day diary of my skin and finally got ahead of my breakouts
