In Chettinad, I realised I've been dressing for Instagram and not real life

Does personal style really exist if it only works for the reel?
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Photographed by Farhan Hussain

When you’re styling a fashion shoot, you’re always negotiating between the world you planned and the world you’ve been given.

For days before my shoot in Chettinad, in southern Tamil Nadu, I was scrolling through archival photographs, reading about mercantile families and trade routes, saving screenshots of tiled floors like they were runway looks. I was hoping they would lend the shoot the visual backbone I had in mind. I knew Chettinad in theory long before I met it in person. In my head, it was all symmetry and splendour: pillars, courtyards, lacquered Burmese teak, a particular old-world maximalism.

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In a Chettinad mansion washed in sepia light, ivory silk weaves its timeless appeal through twin silhouettes.

On Khushi (left): Handwoven ivory kadhwa Banarasi sari, EKAYA BANARAS. Amel 50 slingbacks, JIMMY CHOO. On Nejm (right): OH Poppi dewdrop statement earrings (worn as a hair accessory), OUTHOUSE JEWELLERY. Silvi Creme crepe Khaddo sari, SHANTI BANARAS. Scarlett Mule 50 (silver), JIMMY CHOO.

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Khushi sits with the artisans of The MRmRm Cultural Foundation—K Manickavalli, R Muthu and S Vijayalakshmi—settling naturally into the sisterhood and the steady rhythm of their Palmyra basketry.

Kiran asymmetrical top, SZABO SIHAG. Antariya pants, BODEMENTS. Sharda earrings, ANU MERTON.

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Then I arrived with suitcases packed with garment bags, hangers, safety pins, double-sided tape. The usual circus. A stylist’s armoury. And yet the minute I stepped inside, I realised this wasn’t a place that demanded drama.

Chettinad is simply extremely sure of itself. The mansions teach you this immediately. They don’t read as buildings so much as firm establishments, standing in defiance of anything seasonal or trendy.

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A tailored Dior suit settles within the quiet order and natural patina of a 1916 art nouveau–style Chettiyar mansion.

Waistcoat, jacket, skirt, DIOR. Textured cap (black), TIL BY AV.

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Flanked by Nejm and Khushi, Meenakshi Meyyappan, the matriarch of the mansion and one of the key custodians of Chettinad’s architectural and culinary heritage, holds court.

On Nejm: Dancing Lion Kanjivaram dress, JADE BY MK. Gajalakshmi handcrafted choker, emerald and rose-cut kanti handcrafted necklace, VAMSAM BY MEENU SUBBIAH. Scarlett Mule 50 (silver), JIMMY CHOO. On Khushi: Zadie dress, CHORUS. Driti choker (worn as a hair accessory), ANU MERTON. Malaya silver necklace, Tarani silver choker necklace, TRIBE AMRAPALI. Amel 50 slingbacks, JIMMY CHOO.

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We had lunch at the Chettinad Mansion. The food kept arriving almost without consent, as if the table itself refused to tolerate scarcity. Between bites, I kept looking down at the Athangudi tiles underfoot, laid out like a masterclass in pattern. Every inch of the town was dressed in colour combinations so potent you could get a sugar rush just looking at them. Nothing matched. Everything worked.

By late afternoon, the light shifts, allowing the courtyard and all its textures to breathe differently.

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By late afternoon, the light hits different, letting the courtyard—and all the textures that inhabit it—breathe differently.

Small panel asymmetric dress, crossed neck two holes dress, LOUIS VUITTON. Gold-plated silver stone necklace (worn as a hair accessory) and earrings, TRIBE AMRAPALI. Pin It Up chain cuff (worn as an anklet), Aqua Glow bangles, SIMRANCHHABRA JEWELS.

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Over the pond, the morning light brings colours to life in their purest form.

Conceptual multi-panelled dress handcrafted with bugle beads, ABU JANI SANDEEP KHOSLA. Necklace, stud earrings, CHANEL.

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Over dinner that evening, jewellery designer Meenu Subbiah, a close friend of the team, told me about the long history of trade and cultural exchange between Burma and Chettinad, and Tamil Nadu more broadly. Suddenly, the shared affection for coconut-based dishes and the lungi made complete sense. I began noticing parallels in how silks and cottons are draped without blouses in the heat, and how hair is adorned with white flowers.

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Meenu Subbiah leans against a pillar in the courtyard at Chettinad Palace

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This trip made one thing uncomfortably clear. We’re taught to treat style as something you construct. Something you buy, assemble, and upload into Instagram carousels, sandwiched between memes and nonchalant photos of whatever drink café culture is currently obsessed with. By the time I left for the airport, I realised I had been packing “looks” for a place that has no use for them.

The best style lesson Chettinad offered was disarmingly simple: dress for the day you are actually having.

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At twilight, old memories gather in the courtyard as a new one begins to form—with half a dance.

Eyes on the Prize bangle and necklace, ANATINA. Aisha corset, BODEMENTS. Unrule sari (ochre), STUDIO MEDIUM. Knotted-leather stretch mules (field green), BOTTEGA VENETA.

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Sepia-toned images of past inhabitants rest on the wall, while the present manifests under them.

Artistic wire earrings (worn as a hair accessory), SIMRANCHHABRA JEWELS. Handwoven blouse (crimson red), EKAYA BANARAS. Jacket, URVASHI KAUR. Kanit handwoven linen sari (black), ANAVILA.

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Kiran asymmetrical top, SZABO SIHAG. Antariya pants, BODEMENTS. Sharda earrings, ANU MERTON.

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Small panel asymmetric dress, crossed neck two holes dress, LOUIS VUITTON. Gold-plated silver stone necklace (worn as a hair accessory) and earrings, TRIBE AMRAPALI.

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Photographed by Farhan Hussain
Styled by Manglien Gangte

Hair and makeup: Eshwar Log. Bookings editor: Aliza Fatma. Models: Khushi Rathee, Nejm.
Assisted by: Firoz Ehsan Mallick (photo); Ankur Singh Nitwal, Saumya Goradia (styling); Gargi Karmakar (hair and makeup); Aparna Gunaranjan (bookings).
Photographer’s agency: Feat Artists.
Hospitality partner: Chettinadu Mansion and Court.

Special thanks: Ms Meenu Subbiah, Ms Visalakshi Ramaswamy, Ms Meenakshi Meyyappan

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