For decades, fine jewellery in India belonged to a closed circle. Precious metals, legacy trust, generational buying habits and the intimidating stronghold of old-guard jewellers made it a space few designers dared to touch. Not too long ago, an Indian couturier stepping into fine jewellery felt like a high-stakes gamble.
Until they did.
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In 2020, Sabyasachi launched his fine jewellery line. His world of Calcutta club afternoons, Mahjong games and organza saris translates seamlessly into classics crafted in 18k gold with diamonds. Motifs like the Royal Bengal tiger sit alongside fine Bengal filigree and reinterpreted jadau, creating jewels that are both timeless and unmistakably his. Worn by global celebrities on international red carpets, such as Jennifer Lopez and Parker Posey, his jewellery occupies much of the same discourse as his garments, in both desirability and cultural impact.
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Tarun Tahiliani’s collaboration with Tanishq’s Rivaah in 2023 translated couture drape into gold, borrowing from Indian weaves, fluid lines and ceremonial motifs. The jewellery mirrors the logic of Tahiliani’s clothing: engineered to flatter movement and accommodate multiple contexts. He builds pieces that can be worn with a lehenga, a sari or even a dress, adaptable to the modern Indian wardrobe. The success of the collaboration underscores something important: fine jewellery today is expected to be versatile without losing gravitas.
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Some designers are going solo, others are partnering with trusted jewellers. Masaba Gupta’s foray into fine jewellery in early 2025, created with Amrapali, offers yet another archetype. These are modern talismans rather than traditional heirlooms. Charms shaped like palms, cameras and the Nandi appear in 18k gold and diamonds, designed for daily wear, not ceremonial storage. They speak to a buyer who has outgrown one-day jewellery, who wants meaning without excess, symbolism without stiffness.
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When you’re an MM bride, you’re head-to-toe Manish Malhotra. At Manish Malhotra stores, brides rush in to finalise their trousseau and immediately move to the jewellery section. Sometimes it’s the reverse. The necklace takes centre stage and the outfit follows. The line, which was launched in 2023, features classical fine jewellery, from signature chokers studded with diamonds, Russian emeralds and South Sea pearls to reimagined traditional designs such as the peacock-inspired jhumka with rubies and diamonds.
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The most recent entry, Papa Don’t Preach High Jewellery, approaches the category with playful irreverence. Known for its maximalist couture and pop-cultural excess, the brand’s jewellery leans into drama: oversized chokers, handcuffs, rings and earrings in 14k–18k gold, set with uncut diamonds and richly coloured gemstones. Each piece is accompanied by a hand-drawn sketch, signed and dedicated, collapsing the distance between object and designer. It is fine jewellery, but is unconcerned with traditional markers of taste, like sticking to classic designs and settings.
Fine jewellery, once guarded and immovable, is becoming expressive again. For Indian couturiers, designing fine jewellery is a natural progression in their careers as world-builders. After all, they have spent years designing for the same moment jewellery exists for: weddings, ceremonies, public appearances, the theatre of being seen. Today’s woman wants an aesthetic that doesn’t fracture between outfit and ornament. If a designer understands how you dress, how you celebrate and how you show up, why wouldn’t you want them to finish the look?
